2019
05.16

Congratulations! You are adopting a new dog. This is an exciting time for you and whether you’re adopting from our humane society or elsewhere, we hope you will find this information helpful. This document covers our philosophy and approach to veterinary care for your dog as well as tips on how to make your adoption successful. Whether you adopt from Save A Dog or not, this is our gift to you. Enjoy!

Medical records: If you’re adopting from Save A Dog allow 30-40 minutes for us to review all your dog’s medical and vaccination records with you, Lens And Leash Animal Shelters And Rescues will also make sure to read all the requirements. It is important that the main caretakers of the dog be at this meeting. We will go over feeding and care instructions at that time as well. Most of our dogs are on Fromm and we offer it at a discount to all our adopters.

Vaccines: Unless there is a medical issue, your adopted dog is up to date on the core vaccinations. If you have a young pup, please See Dr. Dodd’s minimal dose vaccination schedule before vaccinating your puppy. Puppy boosters should be spread at least 4 weeks apart. Otherwise the pup can break with demodectic mange and other auto-immune problems. Follow all vaccines with a dose of homeopathic Thuja 30c to prevent and treat any vaccine damage caused by the adjuvants Thimerisol and Aluminum Hydroxide (which is documented by the World Health Organization as being a 3 out of 4 carcinogen). Thuja can be purchased at Whole Foods or online. Boiron makes it in pellet form, which is recommended. Make sure you never allow an unhealthy pet to be vaccinated, as his/her immune system won’t be up to the job of antibody response. If you feel pressured during your vet visit, please see http://www.petwelfarealliance.org and hear what veterinarians say about their vaccine education. Every vaccine suppresses the immune system for approximately 4 weeks, according to Dr. Ronald Schultz, vaccine expert. Finally, make sure you observe your pet for several hours post vaccination, and watch for any signs of allergic response (facial swelling or respiratory distress). Please read our hand-out on why the annual distemper booster is unnecessary and can be harmful if given repeatedly. Before giving the Lepto vaccine, see http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/read-this-before-you-vaccinate-for-lepto/ and http://www.thedogplace.org/VACCINES/Leptomania-10052-Jordan.asp Lyme vaccine has the potential of causing adverse effects such as generalized arthritis, heart disease, aggression, allergies or other immune diseases. There are safer means of lyme prevention. Read up on the ten myths of vaccines, http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/ten-vaccine-myths/, as well as other literature in your adoption packet. We see many adverse reactions and long-term illnesses due to vaccines, so our adoption contract states you will follow our vaccination protocol.

Food: We feed Fromm, which is a dry kibble made in small batches and ingredients are non-GMO. Fromm is a smaller family-owned company and can be bought online. We also sell it at a discounted price in our shelter store. If you decide to switch the food, avoid “by-products” and corn-wheat-gluten diets as they are just fillers and won’t give your dog what he needs to develop normally. The better quality food (human grade is preferred), the less you will have to spend on his vet care later in life. We recommend a diet of fresh food, or home cooked meals supplemented. We do NOT recommend Iams or Purina or Pedigree or Science Diet or many kibble diets because of the heavy corn base, foreign ingredients, chemicals, and even euthanized pets which lead to chronic health disease. See http://www.truthaboutpetfood.com and join their email list for updates on pet food. Avoid Hill’s brand food as it contains ethoxoquin, a preservative that is a known carcinogen. If your dog has an upset stomach from switching foods too fast, probiotics, canned pumpkin probiotics, and slippery elm in the food works great. Best to feed a bland diet if your dog has an upset stomach. See http://www.holvet.net/slippery_soup.html for more information on how to mix up the slippery elm.

About worms and parasites. Worms are cyclic and it usually takes several de-wormings over a period of time to rid your dog or pup of these parasites completely. Puppies are born with roundworms and most dogs that spend time outside (southern dogs, for example) can ingest worms, so it’s something you need to be vigilant about. Wormer is available at a veterinarian’s office. It’s a good idea to drop a fecal sample off at your vet to determine if further worming is needed. Conventional wormers, Drontal Plus and Panacur, are available from your veterinarian.

Coccidea is another parasite that is common in dogs who are stressed or who have been kenneled. Read more on http://www.beaglesunlimited.com/health/coccidiosis-diagnosis-treatment-and-prevention .

Giardia is not uncommon in dogs who come from farming regions. Watch for these symptoms and read up on natural treatments and prevention. http://www.animalwellnessmagazine.com/articles/guard-against-giardia/ using oil of oregano and Grapefruit seed extract. We recommend giving this to dogs adopted from rural areas and tropical regions. The GSE can also be used as a preventive, the conventional treatment is panacur and flagyl.

Mange. If your dog is excessively itching, s/he could have mange, which is a tiny mite. There are two types of mange: sarcoptic and demodectic. Sarcoptic mange is caused by mites that burrow under the skin and can cause the dog irritation and hair loss. They are not like fleas that hop, so are not easy to see. They are also not easily detected with a skin scraping, and a negative skin scraping doesn’t mean your dog doesn’t have it, so a knowledgeable vet who understands the pattern of hair loss should be able to detect the type of mange. The other type of mange is demodectic mange and this is the type we see more often in recently rescued dogs that have had a barrage of vaccinations as it is caused by an over-stimulated immune system. We see this in young dogs that have received vaccines in large quantities or vaccines not spaced apart to allow the body to recover.

Heart worm preventative. Heartworm pills are a monthly heartworm preventive that you can only purchase with a vet’s prescription. Collies and mixed breed Collies and Australian Shepherds are very sensitive to Ivermectin, so do not use Heartgard on these breeds. See http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/depts-VCPL/ for more information. Interceptor is used instead, but was replaced with Sentinel, which contains the same ingredient as Interceptor (milbemycin) plus an ingredient for flea control (Lufenuron). As many of the dogs from other regions are exposed to heartworm via infected mosquitos, we will have given a heartworm preventive already and suggest you discuss ongoing preventive with your vet for at least the first six months after you bring your dog home.

Flea and tick preventative. We want your dog to live a long and healthy life so we want to warn you about the conventional flea and tick products as studies show that these products lead to bladder cancer and even worse, immediate dangers including death. When you squeeze a tube of flea and tick preventive between your dog’s shoulder blades, you are unwittingly depositing pesticides in your dog’s blood stream. As far back as 1989, a study by the Purdue University School of Veterinary Medicine Department of Pathobiology, published in the Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, found that dogs who received one to two topical pesticide applications per year experienced a 60% increased risk of bladder cancer. Dogs that were given more than two applications per year were 3.5 times more likely to develop bladder cancer. The risk was increased even more in overweight or obese dogs (Glickman et al., 1989; Glickman et al., 2004; Raghaven et al., 2004). Nextgard and Bravecto are very dangerous as it causes neurological damage, resulting in behavioral changes in dogs (aggression). See http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/bravecto-nexgard-simparica-oral-flea-tick-preventives-safe/ for more information. It’s not worth poisoning your dog just to avoid lyme. Cancer is worse than lyme. It’s better to use a safe product such Dr. Ben’s Paws and Claws cedar oil spray to keep the bugs off. We sell it at our Save A Dog shop at our shelter for $10 or you can buy it at http://www.drbenscedaroil.com. We also recommend the Dr. Mercola collars, which repel all bugs. You can also purchase the collars on Amazon. Brewer’s yeast and garlic supplements will naturally repel insects. We sell the Bug Off Garlic at a discount and it works great. A good article to read on ticks and lyme disease is http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/ticks-natural-prevention/. If your dog contracts lyme disease we have a very effective fast-working homeopathic treatment that is inexpensive.

Choosing a Veterinarian. When choosing a veterinarian it’s best to find a holistic or conservative vet who does “over-service” your dog or pup. Pharmaceuticals and non-core vaccines can start him on the pathway to ill health. A helpful video to watch is on http://dogs4dogs.com/vet. It’s very educational. To locate a holistic vet, see http://www.ahvma.org/ . If you have a very young pup, it is always wise to use a traveling vet so that you don’t expose him/her to diseases such as K9 cough or parvo. Most have low overhead and do not push “the extra” services.

Considering pet insurance: You will find a Trupanion flyer in your adoption packet. If you call within 24 hours of the adoption, you will receive 30 days free pet insurance. If you don’t sign up for their insurance, it is cancelled at the end of the trial period. For more information on pet insurance, visit www.trupanion.com/shelter. Other pet insurance offers available are PetFirst at www.petfirst.com/petfinder, http://www.embracepetinsurance.com , and Co-Pilot Protection Plan at www.gohealthypaws.com.

K9 or Kennel cough: This upper respiratory infection or “doggy cold” is a common occurrence in rescued dogs and is almost unavoidable because of the mandated veterinary visits required before adoption. Most of our intakes are in foster homes and without infection prior to travel, but the health exam requires a visit to the vet clinic and the incubation period is from 5-10 days, so dogs can break with it a few days after arrival to our shelter or even after the adoption. It’s best to keep your dog away from other dogs during this time. If you plan on using doggy daycare during the day, hiring a pet sitter or dog walker is a good back up plan. For more information on kennel cough, see our Tips section of this packet.

Spaying/neutering: Most of our dogs are spayed or neutered, unless they are not mature. If your pup is not altered, please spay or neuter your pup well after the vaccinations are completed, preferably in adolescence so that the dog’s development is not short-circuited by premature removal of the much-needed hormone supply. Check out http://www.saveadog.org/holistic.asp for some helpful articles. Allow full maturity and see our literature for more information, as well as the U. C. Davis Web site:

http://news.ucdavis.edu/search/news_detail.lasso?id=10498

Additionally, http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2013/04/10/early-spaying.aspx will help dispel some myths and http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/three-reasons-to-reconsider-spayneuter/ explains the risk of prostate disease with pediatric neutering. Save A Dog puppy adopters are not allowed to breed a dog (per our contractual agreement) so we’re not saying to leave your dog intact, but we encourage you to work with a veterinarian who understands the benefits of proper development prior to alteration.
Six months is too young for most breeds, but if you have a toy breed or a Dachshund, then six months might be okay as the smaller breed dogs tend to mature faster. If your pup was spayed/neutered too young, it will help to give beneficial hormones. Low cost spay-neuter clinics are located at http://www.massanimalcoalition.org/resources/spay-neuter/ . We recommend Sterling Animal Shelter low cost clinic in Sterling, MA. The price is the same for everyone and it’s fair. https://sterlingshelterclinic.org

Basic Supplies List
• Leash (flat 6 foot leash is preferred – you must provide your own leash. We sell them in our shop for $7.)
• Harness (we send your dog or pup home with a collar, but we strongly recommend a harness to keep the dog from choking and straining at the collar level.
• Crate (check to see if we have your dog’s size in stock). We sell the collapsible wire crates 30” crates for $55, 36” crates for $65 and the 42” crates for $85.
• Bowls (the kind that don’t tip over is best). We have a range of stainless steel bowls.
• Collar (provided to you at no charge by Save A Dog)
• Probiotics (available at Save A Dog at a discounted price)
• Dr. Harvey’s Multi-vitamin and Minerals (available at Save A Dog) will provide your dog with all the vitamins and trace minerals he needs. Some vitamins drop out of the body after vaccines. We sell the supplements and probiotics 2 for $25.

SHOPPING AT OUR SHELTER STORE SAVES YOU SOME MONEY AND IT HELPS TO SUPPORT THE RESCUED DOGS WHO RESIDE AT THE SHELTER.

What to expect the first 24 hours: The first day can be very exciting for a dog and you may find that s/he is not that hungry. This is not unusual. Please make sure you allow quiet time for your pup so that s/he can eat and rest, especially if you have kids. This can be in a crate or in an area of the house that is safe, i.e., gating off the kitchen. For adult dogs, it is not unusual for them to “hold their water” (urine) for a few days. We’ve had dogs who have not have a bowel movement for up to four or five days. Once they your dog relaxes, things will start to move internally and they should begin having normal bowel movements. It is not unusual for house-trained dogs to have an accident in a new environment. Also, male dogs will often lift their leg on furniture the first day. It doesn’t mean they’re not housebroken, but it means they’re “marking” their new home as their own. It is wise to confine a new dog and to limit access to rooms other than the kitchen or small rooms with tiled floors. Puppies who are paper-trained will often view a scatter rug as the same as a paper so you might want to roll up the rugs. DO NOT TAKE THE DOG FOR A WALK OFF PROPERTY FOR AT LEAST A WEEK!

Adjustment period. Please allow for an adjustment period for your new dog, especially if the dog has recently spent time in a shelter and has suffered many losses and a disruption of his former life. Make sure you keep your new dog home for at least the first 48-72 hours and don’t try to take your dog for a walk until he is leash trained. It is wise to have them drag the leash while indoors to get used to the leash as well as to prevent any quick exits when people open doors unbeknownst to you. Make sure the collar is nice and snug the first few days after bringing any new dog home. LEASH WALK ON PROPERTY ONLY FOR THE FIRST WEEK.
Socialization. It is very important to socialize your dog, but first let him get used to his new home. Take the dog home and have a quiet day letting him get familiar with his new surroundings. The first week you should keep him/her at home as it lessens the chance of escaping if you accidently drop a leash. This is the time to have friends over, including men, women, and children. If your dog is from a rural area, you need to gently and slowly socialize him and not put him into crowded situations or walk them on busy roads where noises may startle them into a fearful response. For adult dogs, daily walks will keep them socialized with pets and people. It’s important that your dog meet new dogs on a daily or weekly basis. Even if you have a fenced-in yard, walking your dog is needful for socialization, but not the first day. Give him a few days to settle in and learn where he lives.

Training resources. Training is required for all adopted dogs. You can find a professional trainer on the web site https://www.karenpryoracademy.com/find-a-trainer and type in your zip code. A good web site for reward-based training (to bridge the gap before classes start) is http://www.clickertraining.com/ . Dogwise.com is a great resource for dog training books and videos. If you live local to us, we often have training classes during the spring/summer months provided by Family Dog Training in Hudson. We recommend them as a training company and they will give you a discount on your dog training classes if you show proof of adoption from us. Avoid dominance training (Caesar) as it will damage your relationship with your dog and cause fearful behaviors. If your trainer suggests shaking a can of pennies or using a shock collar, run the other way.

Food amounts and preparation: We tend to feed puppies 3 times a day and adults twice a day. If your adult dog is underweight, you need to add at least one more feeding per day. We recommend adding chicken broth to help dissolve the added supplements and letting it sit for a few minutes. If you’re switching brands, do it by introducing the new food in small quantities and increasing the new food as the existing food decreases. Do this over a 10 day period. Add probiotics and enzymes to help the process.

Supplements: Commercial dog food does not meet all your dog’s nutritional needs, therefore supplements are important for your dog’s health and will keep you from all those extra visits to the vet. Probiotics and enzymes will promote a healthy intestinal tract as well as make the transition to a different food easier. Probiotics are important in the PM feeding as probiotics work at night. Info on why you should give your dog probiotics is at http://www.thewholedog.org/id24.html. You can give colostrum to boost your pup’s immune system the first year of life. We sell it and it’s online at www.colostrumhealth.co.nz.
For large adult dogs, one tablet of grapefruit seed extract in their kibble every morning will help boost the immune system. It sells for $9 at Vitamin Shoppe) as it’s known for its strong antioxidant qualities. It also treats and prevents giardia. For more information on the benefits of grapefruit seed extract, see http://www.natural-dog-health-remedies.com/gse-for-dogs.html. Save A Dog sells it at a discount to adopters.

Recommended Reading
Puppy Problem? No Problem by Brenda Aloff. Available at Save A Dog or dogwise.com. It comes with a DVD and is an excellent choice in dog training books, even if you adopt an adult dog.
Clicker Basic for Dogs & Puppies by Carolyn Barney. (available in our retail shop). Also at www.cleanrun.com (sold at our shelter)
The Other End of the Leash Patricia McConnell (and all her videos) www.dogwise.com
I’ll Be Home Soon by Patricia McConnell. Dogwise

Do Over Dogs by Pat Miller. Dogwise (available as E-book)

Healer in Every Home: Dog and Cat Edition. Begabati Lennihan with Shirley Moore and Margo Roman, DVM. Amazon

Living with Kids and Dogs without Losing your Mind. Colleen Pellier. C&R Publishing. 2007

The Puppy Primer by Patricia McConnell. Available on dogwise.com and Save A Dog.
Dr. Pitcairn’s Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats. Rodale. Richard Pitcairn

Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs. Don Hamilton.

Pukka’s Promise: The Quest for Longer-Lived Dogs. Ted Kerasote

Best Magazine to subscribe to is dogsnaturallymagazine.com

BE SURE TO USE AMAZON SMILE AND SELECT SAVE A DOG INC AS YOUR CHARITY.

2019
05.16

This was written by a pet owner who conducted extensive research that has been validated by veterinarians.

Revaccination:
The untold story of vaccination schedules, science and speculation
Last month, some vets responded to a post on our website called “5 things vets say about vaccines that aren’t true.” I was pretty happy that a couple of those vets engaged me in conversation and we had a nice, respectful dialogue. They gave me their side of the story and I shared mine. I’d like to say that it ended with both of us gaining a better understanding of each other, but I’m afraid I’m still as puzzled today as I was then.
I’ll preface the following by clearly stating that I’m not a vet. I didn’t attend veterinary college and it’s certainly not a profession I aspire to. I’ve got six years of university and two degrees under my belt, so I know the kind of debt that vets enter into when they graduate. I also know that the vast majority of them make very little money for the amount of education that goes into their career.
But I’m a dog lover and I do like to think that I’m a fairly intelligent and rational person. I don’t want to see dogs get hurt and vets certainly don’t want to see them get hurt. I truly believe that. I like to believe that vets are intelligent and rational also. But the excerpts from various veterinary websites that you’ll see in various places below have me baffled.
Why do vets continue to use vaccination protocols that have no scientific validity?
And now for a little history lesson
Back in the mid 1970’s, vaccines were licensed by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), based on challenge studies that were done for only a few weeks to a few months. Because of that short period of testing, all vaccine labels had this statement on them: “Annual Revaccination Recommended.”
Because duration of immunity (DOI) studies are expensive, the vaccine manufacturers tested their vaccines for a short period of time and subsequently put them on the market with the suggestion of vaccinating annually. But nobody really knew how long those vaccines would last because nobody went to the trouble to test them for more than a few months. So vets got into the habit of vaccinating every year.
During this time, a young scientist had an epiphany. Dr Ronald Schultz PhD wondered why animals were vaccinated yearly when dogs and cats that had recovered from natural infection to distemper and panleukopenia were protected, even years later. His own children weren’t vaccinated into adulthood, so based on these observations, he published “An Ideal (But Not Proven) Immunization Schedule for Dogs and Cats” in 1978 with a fellow scientist. In this report, they recommended a series of puppy and kitten shots, followed by revaccination at one year, then revaccination every three years.
Next, he set out to prove it
From the 1970’s on, Dr Schultz and his colleagues performed study after study. They tested well over 1,000 dogs and used all of the major veterinary vaccine products. They measured immunity with both serology (by measuring circulating antibodies) and challenge (exposing the dogs to the disease). And he did in fact prove that those vaccines were extremely likely to last for the life of the animal.
Dr Schultz and his team found that the distemper vaccine produced a minimum of 7 years DOI with challenge and at least 15 years with serology. This doesn’t mean that the vaccines stop working after this period of time – these numbers reflect the number of years after vaccination the dogs were tested. Theoretically, if the dogs lived to 30 and were tested at that time, they might still be protected.
His research also showed that parvovirus would protect dogs for at least 7 years with challenge and 9 years with serology. The other common part of the core vaccines, adenovirus, was also shown to protect for 7 and 9 years respectively.
The results were basically the same for every vaccine he tested and for every dog.
And then he showed that dogs that were vaccinated just once, after the maternal antibodies were gone, were similarly protected when challenged.
“Only one dose of the modified-live canine ‘core’ vaccine (against CDV, CAV-2 and CPV-2) or modified-live feline ‘core’ vaccine (against FPV, FCV and FHV), when administered at 16 weeks or older, will provide long lasting (many years to a lifetime) immunity in a very high percentage of animals”

Does this vet know there is no scientific study supporting annual – or even triennial – vaccination?
The good news (sort of)
These early recommendations prompted the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) to assemble a task force. In 2003, the American Animal Hospital Association Canine Vaccine Task Force evaluated the data from Dr Schultz’s work and, while noting that the core vaccines had a minimum duration of immunity of at least seven years, compromised by saying that “revaccination every 3 years is considered protective.”
Why would the AAHA recommend revaccination when faced with research showing that those vaccines were extremely likely to protect dogs and cats for life? And more importantly …
Why every three years?
Dr Richard Ford, Professor of Medicine at North Carolina State University, was a part of that 2003 task force. Afterward, he said that the decision to recommend a three year revaccination schedule for core vaccines was a compromise.
“It’s completely arbitrary…,” he said. “I will say there is no science behind the three-year recommendation…”
So, when presented with pretty convincing evidence that vaccines lasted for a lifetime, and certainly as long as seven years or more, the AAHA was only willing to move from annual revaccination to triennial.

A dental vaccine?
Although the AAHA didn’t appear to be much interested in admitting that they might be over-vaccinating dogs, the 2003 task force prompted all of the major veterinary vaccine manufacturers to complete their own studies showing a minimum three year DOI on the core vaccines. So now the vaccine manufacturers could state on the label that the vaccines would last at least three years, not one. Things were moving forward, albeit at a snail’s pace.
By 2006, vaccine labels had changed to reflect a longer DOI and the AAHA released their revised Canine Vaccine Guidelines. These guidelines were updated again in February 2007 to update new information about parvovirus and distemper vaccination.
So, in 2006, nearly thirty years after Dr Schultz’s initial research, the AAHA decided to change their revaccination recommendations for core vaccines from “revaccination every 3 years is considered protective” to “revaccination every 3 years or more is considered protective.”
So what changed?
In the meantime, vaccines were starting to be looked at with a much more analytical point of view. Not only was the AAHA slowly responding to Dr Schultz’s work, but some vets started taking a good look at why over-vaccinating wasn’t a very good idea. Dr Schultz again outlined this for the vets in 2007 and his list of known adverse events is on page 55 for you to see.
Finally, in 2011, in response to Dr Schultz’s continued repetition of his studies showing lifelong immunity, in virtually every dog, with virtually every core vaccine, the AAHA once more updated their Canine Vaccination Guidelines.
Don’t get too excited
In 2011, the AAHA still stuck to “every 3 years or more” as a recommendation, but with the following comment: “Among healthy dogs, all commercially available [core] vaccines are expected to induce a sustained protective immune response lasting at least 5 yr. thereafter”
Five years? Now where did that number come from?
Back in 2003, the AAHA task force supported their three year schedule with, “This is supported by a growing body of veterinary information and well-developed epidemiological vigilance in human medicine that indicates immunity induced by vaccination is extremely long lasting and, in most cases, lifelong.”
Yet in spite of this, eight years later, they changed their recommendations to three, maybe five, years. Why did they say immunity from vaccination is lifelong, yet they continue to recommend revaccinating every three, maybe every five years?

But, according to Dr Schultz’s research, puppies only require one vaccination
Why are they so wishy-washy on the topic?
“Profits are what vaccine critics believe is at the root of the profession’s resistance to update its protocols. Without the lure of vaccines, clients might be less inclined to make yearly veterinary visits. Vaccines add up to 14 percent of the average practice’s income, AAHA reports, and veterinarians stand to lose big.” says Schultz. “Tying vaccinations into the annual visit became prominent in the 1980s and a way of practicing in the 1990s. Now veterinarians don’t want to give it up.”
That’s not the worst part
As much as it chagrins me that the veterinary associations are woefully slow to catch up to Dr Schultz’s research, the really frightening part is that the guidelines are just that.
Vets are free to vaccinate whenever and however they wish. The veterinary associations only make recommendations; there are no repercussions if vets choose to ignore them.
On top of that, even though the vaccine labels are changing to say they protect pets for at least three years, they still leave the revaccination schedule up to the vet. One vaccine insert from a major pharmaceutical company states, “You are the ultimate authority. You, the practicing veterinarian, are best qualified to make the final decisions for your own practice.”

Another push for annual vaccination

The good news is, this freedom allows vets to vaccinate less often than every three years. The bad news is, it leaves them wide open to vaccinate yearly too.
And what does Dr Schultz think of giving vets the ultimate authority to make vaccine decisions?
“Unfortunately not enough folks teaching immunology explain the process so students understand the complexities of vaccine-induced immunity, and there are significant differences between the mechanism of protective immunity to the same pathogen in a naïve vs a vaccinated animal” he says. “I, in academia, accept some of the blame for the confusion, but I also place some of the blame on my colleagues in industry, especially those who market vaccines. They have done a much better job of educating practitioners to their way of selling vaccines than immunologists have done in teaching the facts about vaccine-induced immunity.”
So vets might not be all that prepared to make fully educated immunological decisions, yet the AAHA and the vaccine manufacturers are giving them full rein to do just that.
Who’s left holding the bag?
So the only person who gets to decide how often pets are vaccinated also has a financial interest in how often they’re vaccinated. Not every vet would think of profiting from over-vaccination, but for those who might, there’s nothing to stop them. Not even the law.
Unsuspecting pet owners are almost completely unprotected from those vets who choose to revaccinate with schedules lacking scientific backing. In most states and provinces, it’s virtually impossible for pet owners to sue for vaccine damage, even when vaccines are given against label and veterinary association recommendations. Most pets are only valued at a couple of hundred dollars and, in most states, pet owners are unable to sue for pain and suffering. “I suspect some are ignoring my work”
Dr Schultz just might be right. Because it sure looks to me like more than a few vets are indeed ignoring his work. While many vets are happily adopting the new guidelines and some are following Dr Schultz’s “one and done” recommendation, there are still vets who wholeheartedly advocate annual revaccination.
Dr Bob Rogers hired a Chicago based law firm and initiated a class action suit for pet owners who weren’t given informed consent prior to vaccination. His article entitled “The Courage to Embrace the Truth” states, “While attending conferences like WSVMA and NAVMC I have asked over 400 DVMs from various parts of the country if they attended the seminars on New Vaccination Protocols. I was told by all but one, “I don’t care what the data says, I am not changing.” One DVM here on VIN even said “I am not changing until the AVMA makes me change.”
And we know that’s not happening.
How many vets are we talking about?
So, we decided to google “annual vaccine dog” to see what vets had to say on this topic. And first in our search was a large company that has several hundred clinics. And they state on their website that most vaccines need to be given annually.
That one company alone vaccinates tens or hundreds of thousands of cats and dogs annually. Without any science to back their schedule.
Page after page came up, showing even more vets who were still vaccinating for the core vaccines yearly (as you can see). So that’s why we wrote a little blog post about it. And some vets were kind enough to talk to us about that post.
Show me the science
Now I’ll be the first to admit that I can get a little abrasive when vets push back on this topic. I get a little irate when vets or even pet owners come onto our website and Facebook page and say we’re full of hooey and that pet owners should check with their vets, instead of getting their information from somebody who isn’t a vet.
OK, so that would make sense in an ideal world. Because, theoretically, vets would have access to information and research that somebody like you and I wouldn’t. They would have a better grasp of immunology and they would have access to Dr Schultz’s work.
They would be able to make “scientific” decisions whereas you and I presumably can’t. Theoretically. But here’s where I get upset.
There’s no scientific evidence for the vaccination schedules vets are using today.
None.
This is why Dr Schultz calls annual vaccination an “indefensible practice.” It even states this in every copy of the veterinary textbook, Kirk’s Current Veterinary Therapy XI (Small Animal Practice), right on page 205.

Another call for annual vaccination
Science vs speculation
So, on one side of the fence, there’s virtually indisputable evidence that one core vaccine, given at or after 16 weeks of age, can last a lifetime – or, at the very least, 5 to 7 years.
On the other side of the fence, there’s no evidence whatsoever that the core vaccines ever need to be repeated (this doesn’t include the bacterin non-core vaccines like leptospirosis and bordetella).
There never has been.
By vaccinating annually, or even triennially, vets are ignoring valid and reliable research and clinging to a revaccination schedule that’s based merely on speculation and habit.
And this includes the majority of vets.
“I’m the only one in the profession who challenges the immunity of vaccines. I’m really one among a total of three individuals who have challenge studies out. With just a few of us studying them and more vaccines on the market, how are we supposed to keep up?” say Schultz. “In the 1970s, there were four vaccines for dogs and we weren’t using them often. Now there are 16 vaccines for dogs, and if they’re not getting them annually, they’re getting them more often than that.”
Wouldn’t you think that out of the thousands of vets giving vaccines routinely, that more than three would want to know how long they actually last?

And on it goes
Why do they do it?
I don’t know why vets seem to be ignoring Dr Schultz’s work. Is it a deliberate act because repeated vaccination means more money? That might be true in some cases, but couldn’t vets replace that lost vaccine income with revenue from titers?
Titer testing, a simple blood test that measures the circulating antibodies as a measure of immunity, could surely be used to draw pet owners into the clinics every year. Annual titer testing isn’t all that necessary either, but at least the risk is just a poke in the vein, not cancer, seizures or even sudden death. The only thing vets would be hurting is our pocket books and I’d be OK with that. They have to make a living after all.
Do vets continue to over-vaccinate because they’re afraid? They might be. But to resist the only research done on vaccine duration of immunity and stick to a scientifically unproven schedule doesn’t jibe with that. Wouldn’t vets be eager to join the team with all the research on their side? Because if they’re afraid of the unknown, then they should run from annual vaccination like their hair was on fire. Granted, we might not know whether the core vaccines last for seven years or a hundred years, but we sure as heck know that they all last for at least five years. Minimum.
I want to thank the one vet who communicated with me about this topic. I forwarded her this research and she was kind enough to say she would read it. Then she emphasized that vets don’t do these things maliciously. And I believed her.
But what she said next broke my heart. She said that she can only read so much and there are only so many continuing education classes she can take, with a young family and a 50 hour or more work week. She said she reads veterinary journals every month and has never come across any immunology studies, although she would be interested in reading them.
Here was a vet who appeared to be open minded and willing to look at vaccine schedules, yet she’s never come across Dr Schultz’s research. She’s objective and compassionate and wants to do the right thing. But for some reason, she’s not.
In the end, it’s not for me to say why vets continue to revaccinate on unscientific schedules. But when they urge us to vaccinate more often than necessary, are they being untruthful with us or with themselves?
Half of adult dogs today die of cancer. Many more are suffering from preventable chronic diseases that could very likely be caused by vaccines. Somebody needs to connect the dots, and soon. Our pets are counting on it.
But at the heart of it, there’s an old Navajo proverb that I fear may be why vets aren’t letting go of over-vaccination.
It goes, “You can’t wake a person who is pretending to be asleep.“

2019
05.16

How to Survive Your Dog’s Vet Visit without Having your Dog “Over-serviced”

This article will help you to save money at your dog’s wellness visit while keeping your dog healthy. Many of our adopters and volunteers have told us that this is invaluable information so we are making this available to the public as well. This article contains a good deal of information and it is not our intention to overwhelm but, but to give you good resources when you need it. It is a good idea to review this this prior to your pet’s wellness visit, but if you are adopting a dog from Save A Dog, it will help the adoption process to go faster as it will give you a good foundation as to our holistic protocol. At the humane society we talk to people every day who have lost a dog to cancer or some other disease that might have been prevented if only they had some truthful education as to some harmful ingredients that are contained in vaccines and commercial pet food.

Dr. Jean Dodds, Veterinarian and Vaccine Researcher, developed a protocol that has been adopted by all 27 Vet teaching universities. Sadly, not all veterinarians have caught on because a large portion of their income is generated by vaccinations. We can’t stress this enough, you have to be your pet’s advocate when taking your dog or cat for a wellness visit. It’s hard to believe, but most Veterinarians these days will pressure you into extra vaccines that are actually harmful to your pet. Fear tactics are the norm, yet this fear-based medicine has no scientific validity whatsoever! It is strongly recommended that you do your homework first as many vaccines can actually be detrimental to your pet’s health. A good Web site that is written in layman’s terms is: http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/petvacc.htm (developed by a different Shirley, but who has the same philosophy) as well as http://www.dogs4dogs.com/blog/ .
If your dog or pup needs the puppy boosters (DA2PP) never allow the Lepto vaccine to be added as it has the most adverse side effects and has caused deaths in dogs. If you’re worried about leptospirosis, Save A Dog will provide upon request, a lepto nosode, which is safe and gentle.

The only vaccine required by the state of MA is the Rabies vaccine.
If you adopt a puppy, wait at least a month after the final puppy booster before giving the Rabies vaccine. This means not before your pup is at least five months old. You legally can wait until the pup is six months old. Once your pup gets his first rabies vaccine, it’s important to note the expiration date. In MA you have to renew it within a year in order to be put on the 3 year vaccine schedule for Rabies. If you allow the 1 year Rabies expire by even 1 day, your dog be required to receive another 1 year vaccine, so it’s important to note the date. Renewal on time means your dog receives a 3 year break between vaccinations. The Rabies vaccine contains aluminum hydroxide, which is a documented by the WHO as being a 3 out of 4 carcinogen! With such a dangerous ingredient – and a cancer epidemic — you don’t want to subject your pet to this vaccine too often. The vaccine can cause a fibrosarcoma on the site of the injection, especially in cats. All you have to do is “google” and you will find many stories about injection site fibrosarcomas. The following guidelines may save your pet’s life:
• Never allow anyone to vaccinate your dog if s/he is not in optimal health. This includes skin infections, ear infections, or bowel disturbances.
• Never allow vaccination just prior to or while your dog is undergoing surgery.
• Never allow two vaccines to be given at the same time, especially the rabies.

Don’t Keep Subjecting Your Adult Dog to the Puppy Boosters!
If your dog is under the care of a veterinarian, you probably receive post card reminders listing “needed” vaccines. It is important to note that once your dog has finished his puppy boosters, the only vaccine required by law is the rabies vaccine. The distemper/parvo (DAPP) booster should NOT be repeated every year or every 3 years, as some vets recommend. There is absolutely no scientific evidence to support a 3 year schedule for this vaccine. Parvo/Distemper vaccines should only be given to puppies (using Dr. Dodd’s protocol) and then you can have a titer test done if you feel it’s necessary. Dr Ronald Schultz, vaccine researcher and expert witness on vaccines, gives his puppies one vaccine at 15 weeks and then he titers the pup every 3 weeks afterwards. He has never had to give a second vaccine – not ever. Do not be pressured into the 3 year vaccine as an over-stimulated immune system can lead to auto-immune and other chronic diseases.

Dr. Ron Schultz and Dr. Scott reported back in l978 that vaccines were not needed yearly and if that was done, it was for the generation of revenue and the hook to grab clients, but never scientifically researched nor does it today fit evidence-based medicine.

Shocking revelation: although every vaccine manufacturer has completed studies as to length of immunity for their products and although every product has at least of 3 years protection…not one of these results has been published or publicly acknowledged until the 3 year recommendations came out from the AVMA, AAHA and AAFP. In other words manufacturers have always known these vaccines would generate immune titers for a lengthy amount of time and all at least 3 years and yet never informed the public, they also never completed any safety studies against carcinogenicity none for the multiple use of vaccines and year after year after year after year use of the ‘mumbo jumbo’ vaccine cocktail.
Isn’t it time to demand full disclosure on vaccines? It is your right! Do not be bullied into having your dog over-serviced by anyone who is profiting from that service and the ensuing repeat business. You are your dog’s ONLY advocate!

Annual Vaccines? NEVER! Here’s a quote, from Dr. Ronald Schultz and Tom Phillips, DVM, that appeared in Current Veterinary Therapy XI in 1992 (Dr’s. Schultz and Phillips are respected veterinary immunologists in the academic community): A practice that was started many years ago and that lacks scientific validity or verification is annual revaccinations. Almost without exception there is no immunologic requirement for annual revaccination. Immunity to viruses persists for years or for the life of the animal. Successful vaccination to most bacterial pathogens produces an immunologic memory that remains for years, allowing an animal to develop a protective anamnestic (secondary) response when exposed to virulent organisms. The practice of annual vaccination in our opinion should be considered of questionable efficacy unless it is used as a mechanism to provide an annual physical examination or is required by law (i.e., certain states require annual revaccination for rabies).

What the Experts Say about Vaccines

Leptospirosis vaccine: This vaccine does not protect your dog against contracting Leptospirosis because there are over 253 strains of lepto — vaccines protect against only three or four. As well, that vaccination does not prevent infection, but rather lessens the severity. Lepto vaccination also does not stop shedding of bacteria in the urine, meaning it doesn’t protect humans.
Most importantly, of all the bacterin vaccines, Leptospirosis causes the most adverse reactions.
The American Animal Hospital Association Guidelines for vets places Leptospirosis in their ‘non-core’ (optional) category, with special mention of its high incidence of post- vaccination reactions and advises that, “Annual boosters are not routinely recommended for all dogs. Vaccination should be restricted to use in areas where a reasonable risk of exposure has been established.”
Here’s something to think about. Rats carry the Lepto virus and you don’t see humans being vaccinated against Lepto and yet the human population is not beset with a Lepto outbreak. So why are vets pushing this vaccine on dogs? Should you give in, just to have a good relationship with your vet? A few years back the “annual distemper/parvo” vaccine was debunked by vaccine researchers and veterinary immunologists as being harmful to pets, so you might wonder if this is a business strategy to generate more business for vet hospitals.

Corona vaccine: The Fort Dodge first corona virus vaccine was not killed and the use of that product lead to many cases of vaccine induced encephalitis in the canine. Corona virus vaccine is a vaccine in search of a disease, we didn’t even need it, Europe never fell for that and the vaccine isn’t even available there. In the killed form as it is sold by Fort Dodge in the mumbo jumbo, this would not ever even protect a dog from corona virus if the corona virus even ever learned how to cause disease in a dog!

Canine Distemper vaccine: In the canine distemper vaccine using a canary pox vectored (recombinant DNA) not only allows you to immunize the puppies earlier without running into maternal immune derived interference but as in certain breeds like the Weimaraner, the puppy can survive the vaccination process! Dr. Schultz vaccinates his puppies once at 15 weeks and runs titers after that. What he advises the general public: As a general rule when a Modified Live Vaccine is given to a dog at 15 weeks of age, the vaccine acts as an innate, introduction and booster vaccine all at the same time. When using a Killed vaccine you always MUST use 2 doses and if an interval is longer than 6 weeks from 1 to 2 (booster) then the series must be redone. However, in Modified Live Vaccines it doesn’t matter how far you get apart you can still use the spaced interval (essentially because you don’t even need it if the pup is at least 15 weeks old).

Bordetella (kennel cough) Vaccine: Bordetella is not a disease you can prevent by vaccination.

What Dr. Schultz says about Veterinary Practices that Push Vaccines

For many veterinary practitioners canine vaccination programs have been “practice management tools” rather than medical procedures. Thus, it is not surprising that attempts to change the vaccines and vaccination programs based on scientific information have created great controversy and unique methods of resistance to the proposed changes have been and are being developed. For some practitioners the issues are not duration of immunity for the vaccines, nor which vaccines are needed for the pet, instead it is felt that every licensed vaccine should be given to every pet on an annual or more often basis. A “more is better” philosophy prevails with regard to pet vaccines. On many occasions practitioners say that “I know that many of the vaccines I administer probably aren’t needed, but it won’t hurt to give them and who know the animal may need them some time during their life because of unknown risk.” I have also been told by many practitioners that

“I believe the duration of immunity for some vaccines like distemper, parvovirus, and hepatitis many years, but until I find another way to get the client into my office on a regular basis I’m going to keep recommending vaccines annually.”

Annual vaccination has been and remains the single most important reason why most pet owners bring their pets for an annual or “wellness visit.” The important of these visits for the health of the pet is exceptional. Therefore, dog owners must understand the vaccines are not the reason why their dog needs an annual wellness visit. Another reason for the reluctance to change current vaccination program is many practitioners really don’t understand the principles of vaccine immunity.
It will be necessary to correct many of these and additional misunderstanding by providing education to veterinary practitioners, kennel owners, and pet owners before significant changes in vaccination programs can or will occur to reduce the over-vaccination of both cats and dogs.

Dr. Schultz’s Vaccine Recommendation for Puppies
1. Canine Parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2);
2. Canine Distemper virus (CDV);
3. Canine Adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2);
4. Rabies Virus (RV).

When Do These Core Vaccines Need to be Given?
Vaccine expert Dr. Ronald Schultz recommends that puppies should be given at least one DAPP booster at 16 weeks of age or older. For shelter pups and pups from breeders, we follow Dr. Jean Dodd’s protocol, which has been adapted by vet teaching hospitals. It is important that if you follow this protocol, that the last dose be given at 14 to 18 weeks of age. Vaccines should never be given to pups under six weeks old. If vaccines are given to pups at six weeks, it is safer that they just get the simple DAPP or DA2PP and not the lepto combination vaccine. After the puppy series is completed, the standard recommendation is revaccination at 1 year, but we recommend doing a titer test instead. For rabies, vaccinate a year later (before the expiration date) so as to be put on the 3 year schedule for required Rabies vaccines.

VACCINES TO AVOID COMPLETELY
Bordetella is not a vaccinatable disease, according to Dr. Ronald Schultz, leading vaccine expert! To prevent and cure kennel cough, it is best to build up your dog’s immune system with with a good diet and probiotics. Save A Dog carries an assortment of supplements, which is the best way to boost your dog’s immune system. For more information on the bordetella vaccine, see http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/bordatella-vaccination-dogs/ as well as http://www.dogs4dogs.com/blog/2012/03/21/bordetella-does-your-dog-really-need-the-kennel-cough-vaccine/. We’ve experienced first-hand that this vaccine causes kennel cough and spreads it to other dogs.

Lyme disease vaccine causes heart disease and heart attacks in humans and was taken off the market in 2004. If it was determined to be unsafe for the human market, why is it okay to give to dogs? It offers only minimal protection and the side effects are worse than the actual disease. It is not worth the risk of heart disease and painful arthritis. Your dog will have better protection with a strong immune system. Dr. Patricia Jordan strongly warns against this vaccine due to the connection with heart disease and crippling arthritis.

Leptospirosis (Lepto), as added to the DAPP (distemper/parvo) vaccine, is very dangerous as it has the most adverse side effects of any other vaccine, including kidney failure. See http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/read-this-before-you-vaccinate-for-lepto/ for details on this dangerous vaccine.

Canine Influenza is not recommended as it damages your dog’s natural immunity. Homeopathic remedies are more effective if your dog comes down with the flu. There are only a handful of states affected by canine influenza and MA is not one of them.

Harmful Ingredients and their Side Effects

Vaccination and Brain Inflammation
A great number of studies have shown that when you vaccinate an animal, the body‘s inflammatory cytokines not only increase dramatically, but so do the brain‘s inflammatory chemicals. The brain has its own immune system that is intimately connected to the body‘s immune system. The main immune cell in the brain is called a microglia. Normally, these brain cells are lying throughout the brain in a resting state (called ramified). Once activated, they can move around, traveling between brain cells like amoeba (called amoeboid microglia).
In the resting state, they release chemicals that support the growth and protection of brain cells and their connections (dendrites and synapses). But when activated, they secrete a number of very harmful chemicals, including inflammatory cytokines, chemokines, complement, free radicals, lipid peroxidation products, and two excitotoxins — glutamate and quinolinic acid.
In essence, these brain immune cells are out to kill invaders, since the body‘s immune system sent an emergency message that an invasion had occurred. With most infections, this phase of activation last no more than a few days to two weeks, during which time the immune system successfully kills off the invaders. Once that is accomplished, the immune system shuts down to allow things to cool off and the brain to repair what damage was done by its own immune system.
Mercury and Aluminum
Most vaccines contain aluminum compounds. A multitude of studies have shown that aluminum, especially if combined with fluoride, is a powerful brain toxin and that it accumulates in the brain. With each vaccine injection, a dose of aluminum is given. These yearly aluminum inoculations accumulate not only at the site of the injection, but travel to the brain, where it enters neurons and glial cells (astrocytes and microglia). A number of studies have shown that aluminum can activate microglia and do so for long periods. This means that the aluminum in your vaccination is priming your microglia to overreact. The next vaccine acts to trigger the enhanced inflammatory reaction and release of the excitotoxins, glutamate and quinolinic acid.
You must also appreciate that any infection, stroke, head injury or other toxin exposure will also magnify this inflammatory brain reaction initially triggered by your vaccines. Studies have now indicated that the more one‘s immune system is activated the more like he or she will suffer from one of the neurodegenerative diseases.
Mercury is also a powerful activator of brain microglia and can do so in extremely low concentrations — in nanomolar amounts. Because of its numerous reactions with sulfhydral compounds in the body (which are ubiquitous), mercury can poison a number of enzymes, both systemically and in the brain. Of special concern is the ability of mercury, especially ethyl mercury (the kind found in vaccines called thimerosal) to inhibit the regulation of brain glutamate levels. (It does this by inhibiting the glutamate transfer proteins that control the removal of glutamate from outside the neuron, where it does its harm.) In essence, mercury, in the concentrations being injected with vaccines, triggers excitotoxicity, increases brain free radicals and lipid peroxidation products, inhibits critical brain enzymes, inhibits antioxidant enzymes and impairs DNA repair ability. The flu vaccine contains enough mercury to do all of these things. You must keep in mind that each flu vaccine adds to the mercury supplied by your last vaccine — that is, it is progressively accumulating in your brain.
In addition, the aluminum in the vaccines also primes microglia, and when combined with mercury is infinitively more toxic to the brain. Now, if this is not enough, we also have to consider the contamination of vaccines with foreign viruses and viral components. Studies have shown that this is not a rare occurrence, with up to 60% of vaccines being contaminated in one study of several major manufactured vaccines. When confronted with this fact, vaccine proponents just shrug their shoulders and say — “We don‘t think these things are harmful.”
Dr. Alice Wolf, Professor of Small Animal Internal Medicine at Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine, stated in an address (Vaccines of the Present and Future http://www.vin.com/VINDBPub/SearchPB/Proceedings/PR05000/PR00141.htm) at the 2001 World Small Animal Veterinary Association World Congress: “The recommendation for annual revaccination is a practice that was ‘officially’ started in 1978. This recommendation was made without any scientific validation of the need to booster immunity so frequently.” She also stated that “some veterinarians use the recommendation for vaccinations as a way to ensure client visits for yearly examinations and, least appropriate, as a ‘profit center.’”
According to Colorado State’s College of Veterinary Medicine Teaching Hospital (http://www.geocities.com/kremersark/CSAP.html http://www.calmanimalcare.com/vaccine.htm), “Yearly booster vaccine recommendations for vaccines other than rabies virus have been determined arbitrarily by manufacturers.” The AAHA’s guidelines state “There is no scientific basis for the recommendation to revaccinate dogs annually with many of the current vaccines that provide years of immunity.”

http://www.dvmnewsmagazine.com/dvm/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=35171

The statement stresses AVMA’s stance on education, a reduction in the profession’s dependence on vaccine sales, which account for a significant portion of practice income.
Practitioners and scientists like Glickman theorize the repeated use of vaccines breed antibodies that can attack a host’s own organs, causing autoimmune disease. Schultz argues that many annual vaccines remain effective throughout a lifetime; at least one of his reports successfully challenges a distemper vaccine after seven years. But despite all the research, it wasn’t until veterinarians started noting soft-tissue sarcoma developing at vaccine injection sites in cats that the issue sparked widespread debate.
AVMA admits that the practice of annual vaccinations is based on historic precedent and not research.
‘In the 1970s, there were four vaccines for dogs and we weren’t using them often. Now there are 16 vaccines for dogs, and if they’re not getting them annually, they’re getting them more often than that.’ (quote from Dr. Ronald Schultz)
AVMA refuses to reveal much concerning its position prior to publication, but according to Galvin, the statement offers advice for veterinarians and proposes the following:
* Veterinarians must promote the value of the exam and move away from their dependence on vaccine income.

Vaccines Cause Cancer and Auto-immune Diseases
Fears of vaccine-induced diseases date back more than 40 years. But a sharp increase during the past decade in cancerous tumors among cats, between the shoulder blades where vaccines typically are injected, has spurred studies. Some have found a higher-than-expected incidence of side effects. “We see health problems in dogs for which we have no explanation. The classic one is autoimmune disease,” says Larry Glickman, professor of epidemiology at Purdue University’s School of Veterinary Medicine in West Lafayette, Ind., who is studying possible links with vaccinations. “We see an epidemic of hyperthyroidism in cats today, and we suspect that these are happening because we’re over-vaccinating our pets.”
Dr. Glickman and his colleagues theorize that repeated vaccination causes dogs to produce antibodies against their own tissue. The antibodies are caused by contaminants in the vaccine introduced in the manufacturing process. While the amounts are minuscule, they gradually accumulate with repeated vaccinations over the years. But Dr. Glickman cautions that more research is needed before a clear link can be established between antibody levels and autoimmune disease.
In 1999 the WHO named the veterinary vaccine adjuvant a grade 3 out of 4 carcinogen, with four being the most carcinogenic. The adjuvant identified is aluminum hydroxide, a component of most of the currently used veterinary vaccines. Immuno-supression and genetic mutations of the patient’s p53 onco gene are both routes to cancer via vaccine administration.

CANINE VACCINATION PROTOCOL — 2016
MINIMAL VACCINE USE IS THE SAFEST PROTOCOL

W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET
11561 Salinez Ave.
Garden Grove, CA 92843
E-mail: hemopet@hotmail.com

Note: The following vaccine protocol is offered for those dogs where minimal vaccinations are advisable or desirable. The schedule is one I recommend and should not be interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It’s a matter of professional judgment and choice.

Age of Pups Vaccine Type

9 – 10 weeks

14 weeks

16 -18 weeks (optional)

20 weeks or older, if allowable by law

1 year (You can opt for a titer test instead)

1 year

Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (e.g. Intervet
Progard Puppy DPV)
Same as above

Single Parvovirus, MLV. Note: new research states that last puppy parvovirus vaccine should be at 18 weeks.

Rabies; mercury-free (TF). Note: give 3-4 weeks apart from other vaccinations.

Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (e.g. Merck Nobivac [Intervet Progard] Puppy DPV) or titer. This is an optional booster or titer. If the client intends not to booster after this optional booster or intends to retest titers in another three years, this optional booster at puberty is wise.

Rabies; 3-year product if allowable by law; mercury-free (TF). Note: give 3-4 weeks apart from other vaccinations.

Perform vaccine antibody titers for distemper and parvovirus every three years thereafter, or more often, if desired. Vaccinate for rabies virus according to the law, except where circumstances indicate that a written waiver needs to be obtained from the primary care veterinarian. In that case, a rabies antibody titer can also be performed to accompany the waiver request. Visit: www.rabieschallengefund.org
.

Warning Regarding “Annual” and “3-Year” Distemper
More than a few years ago all 27 Veterinary teaching hospitals changed their protocol for the distemper vaccine. Studies show that it not only does NOT provide additional protection after a year, but that it can cause damage to your dog’s health. We follow Dr. Jean Dodd’s protocol.

Don’t be pressured into giving this potentially dangerous vaccine if your dog has already had it as an adult. You can always request a titer test if you have concerns about his/her protection against distemper. We have seen too many dogs die from the subsequent diseases that this vaccine causes.

Dr. Jean Dodd’s Vaccine Protocol
“Dogs and cats immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces immunity, which is good for the life of the pet (ie: canine distemper, parvo, feline distemper).

If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not “boosted” nor are more memory cells induced.”

Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated hemolytic anemia.”

There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines. Puppies receive antibodies through their mother’s milk. This natural protection can last 8-14 weeks. Puppies & kittens should NOT be vaccinated at LESS than 8 weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced.”

Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, delay the timing of the first highly effective vaccine. Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart suppress rather than stimulate the immune system.

A series of vaccinations is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age. Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age (usually at 1 year, 4 months) will provide lifetime immunity.”

A Homeopathic Perspective on Immunity: Many homeopathic vets, especially in Europe, will opt for nosodes instead of vaccines. Here’s an excerpt from George MacLeod, DVM a well-known homeopathic vet from Great Britain, from his book Dog Homeopathic Remedies: There is a fundamental difference between conventional vaccination by injection and that using the oral route. The former involves the subcutaneous or intramuscular injection of an antigen (vaccine material) which after an interval produces antibodies in the bloodstream against the particular antigen. While in most cases by this method a degree of protection against the particular disease is established, the procedure can be criticized on two grounds: 1, The defense system of the body is not fully incorporated by this means and 2, there is a risk of side effects due to the foreign nature of the protein involved in the vaccine material. This aspect of conventional vaccination has been well-documented in many species. Oral vaccination on the other hand gives a more solid immunity inasmuch as it incorporates the entire defense system, which is mobilized as soon as the vaccine is taken into the mouth and builds up protection with each further dose. This build-up leads on from the tonsillar tissue through the lymphatics incorporating the entire reticulo-endothelial system. This procedure is equivalent to what is known as “street infection” viz. ingestion of virus etc. during daily contact with other animals, when immunity would be built up in the same way. Another advantage in protection by homeopathic means is that vaccination can be started very early in the puppy’s life, e.g. within the first week if necessary. This does not interfere with the presence of any maternal antibodies. Our vet recommends starting pups on nosodes and then giving the injectable vaccine at 12 weeks.

Other Ways to Save $$$ in Vet Costs
Buy ½ the Recommended Heartworm Preventative Medicine. Vets sell this medicine in a monthly dose, but studies show that Interceptor has a reach-back effect of 60 days or more. Heartworm pills can only be purchased with a vet’s prescription. We recommend starting with the Heartgard once a month for the first six months if your dog originated from a heartworm endemic area, then retest and put on Interceptor Plus. Interceptor is also bundled into Sentinel.
Note that Collies and mixed breed Collies and Australian Shepherds are very sensitive to Ivermectin, so do not use Heart Guard on these breeds. See http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/depts-VCPL/ for more information.

Do Not Buy Vet-supplied Flea and tick preventatives. We do NOT recommend ANY “spot on” flea or tick products on a regular basis. We do not recommend using Frontline or Advantix or any flea/tick drops as they put pesticides in your dog’s blood stream and these companies are being investigated by the EPA. http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/health/pets.htm. The FDA finally issued a warning that these products (Bravecto, Nexgard, Simparica) will cause neurological damage and seizures. https://www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/NewsEvents/CVMUpdates/ucm620934.htm

There is also a connection between these products and cancer. To see an article on the link between lymphoma and flea and tick products, see http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/pestcontrol.htm .Also note the lethal effect these products have on humans: http://www.nrdc.org/health/effects/pets/execsum.asp. Spot-on flea/tick products do not prevent a tick from biting. Chewable pesticides such as Nexgard and Bravecto contain warnings by the FDA.

Safer products: It’s better to use a safe product such as Evictors, a product that we’ve used effectively against ticks. We sell the cedar spray at Save A Dog for as low as $10. You can buy it online. A good article to read on ticks and Lyme disease is http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/ticks-natural-prevention/ . Also, brewer’s yeast and garlic supplement will naturally repel insects. We sell the Bug Off Garlic made by springtimeinc.com or you can order it online. See our hand outs for more information on treating Lyme homeopathically.
Do Not Buy Dog Food from the Grocery store or the Vet! Most vet-supplied dog food is not good for your dog’s health. For example, did you know that Hills Prescription Diet contains a cancer-causing preservative called ethoxoquin. Just because you don’t see it listed as an ingredient doesn’t mean it isn’t there. Look for foods that use Vitamin E as a preservative. Most vets are simply not taught nutrition at vet school because the big pet food companies, such as Purina Ralston, have their own reps that come in and “teach” the vets about what is recommended by the AAFCO, The Association of American Feed Control Officials. The AAFCO advisors and committee members include representatives from major feed manufacturers and ingredient suppliers such as Nestle Purina, Hills Pet Nutrition, Nutro Products and Cargill Animal Nutrition. Despite this, AAFCO claims that its function is to protect the consumer. Despite its regulations, AAFCO has no means of enforcement, nor do they perform any analytical testing of foods. Regardless, AAFCO’s regulations are adopted by most states and are the standard to which pet and livestock feed manufacturers must adhere.
The FDA (Food and Drug Administration) is responsible for regulating pet foods, but this is like the fox guarding the chicken coop. When Purina got caught putting euthanized pets in the pet food, the FDA said it was okay to have a set number of parts-per-billion of the euthanasia drug, sodium pentobarbital, in the food.

Food: Do’s and Don’ts: Your dog should be on a high quality food so that s/he grows and develops a strong immune system. When selecting a high quality food, avoid “by-products” and corn-wheat-gluten diets as they are just fillers and won’t give your dog what he needs to develop normally. The better quality food (human grade is preferred), the less you will have to spend on his vet care later in life. We recommend a diet of fresh food, or home cooked meals supplemented. We do NOT recommend Iams or Purina or Pedigree or Science Diet or many kibble diets because of the heavy corn base, foreign ingredient, chemicals, and even euthanized pets which lead to chronic health disease. See http://www.truthaboutpetfood.com and join their email list for updates on pet food. Avoid Hill’s brand food as it contains ethoxoquin, a preservative which is a known carcinogen. See http://www.truthaboutpetfood.com/articles/misinformation-about-ethoxyquin-from-pet-food.html . Also http://www.critterchat.net . We feed Eagle Pack Chicken Holistic Select if a dog is just coming off Purina, but strongly urge our adopters to transition to Fromm soon after.

A raw diet, after the dog has a good foundation on probiotics, is best. Dogs have powerful digestive juices which can break down bones, so they need to have a source for fresh meat to keep their organs healthy.

If your dog has an upset stomach, canned pumpkin or slippery elm in the food works great. It is best to feed a bland diet if your dog has an upset stomach. See http://www.holvet.net/slippery_soup.html for more information and helpful hints.
Try to Avoid NSAIDs: Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs (NSAIDs) are used to control pain and inflammation. Most have potential life-threatening side effects. http://www.dogsadversereactions.com/nsaid/nsaidspage.html . You can use the Tumeric Formula sold by Save A Dog and Whole Foods. It is a wonderful anti-inflammatory. The protein, duck, is anti-inflammatory. Homeopathic Arnica is a wonderful anti-inflammatory. Homeopathy is safe and inexpensive.
Try to Avoid Antibiotics: It is common knowledge that the excessive use of antibiotics will lead to antibiotic-resistant diseases. Antibiotics are suppressive and can drive a disease deeper into the body. Healing should be from the inside out, and true inner healing will often manifest itself on the skin, which is the last organ that may show any sign of the disease. Too many pet owners panic when they see a skin issue and resort to antibiotics, and this sends the disease in the reverse direction, back inside the body where it reaches the vital organs. Hering’s Law of Cure states that the body heals from the inside to the outside. Dr. Constantine Hering brought homeopathy to America. We could learn so much from this simple principle. http://www.wholehealthnow.com/homeopathy_info/constantine_hering.html
Hering’s motto was: “The force of gentleness is great.”

How to Keep Your Dog Healthy
Feed a Healthy Diet of as much fresh food as you can afford.
Give Vitamins.
Use Natural Herbs and Remedies. Most are inexpensive and will save you a visit to the vet. Homeopathic Apis, for example, will treat allergic reactions to bee stings and other causes. Ledum is wonderful for insect bites as it cleanses and purifies the blood. It’s great for dog bites as well.

Give Probiotics. Probiotics are gut-friendly living bacteria that are found naturally in a healthy digestive tract. They can be found in food such a yogurt, although they are not numerous enough in yogurt to colonize the guts of animals effectively. High-quality powdered supplements in powdered form are more effective for therapy as they are far more concentrated. Each teaspoon contains literally millions of good bacteria.

Probiotics improve the health of the digestive tract by changing gut acidity, aiding digestion, and helping to detoxify harmful substances. They boost the dog’s immunity and actively produce antibiotic substances. They are particularly crucial for dogs that have been on a poor diet and for stressed dogs. They are also helpful after the use of antibiotics, steroids, or anti-inflammatory agents.
• Probiotics may be useful in chronic skin disease, allergies, arthritis, cystitis, candidiasis, colitis, irritable bowel syndrome, and some forms of cancer (Chaitow and Trenev, 1990). RxVitamins sells RxBiotics in powdered form.
• Diarrhea: supplementation can help rebalance the population of bacteria that are affected by acute and chronic diarrhea.
• Before switching a dog to the raw diet, it is recommended that you build the dog up on probiotics first especially if the dog has had recent vaccines.

Avoid chemicals. Try to avoid putting anything of a chemical or synthetic nature into your dog. Also avoid lawn chemicals. Even fertilizer can be harmful. Stay organic and your dog will live long and love you for it.
What Service Do You Need at Your Pet’s Wellness Exam?
1. A complete physical exam to detect any obvious health issues and to provide the vet a baseline for future exams.
2. A heartworm/lyme test. Most vets perform a 4DX snap test to determine is your dog has a tick- or mosquito-borne disease. The 4DX test is to test for Heartworm disease, Lyme disease and Ehrlichiosis, and Anaplasmosis. If your dog is over 6 months old and is recently adopted, s/he might already have had this test.
3. A CBC (chemical blood profile) is your dog is approaching middle or senior age or if you suspect any underlying health issues.
4. C6 test (if your dog tests positive for Lyme disease, you will want to know specifics on what the dog’s antibody levels are and this serves as a baseline for you to determine if treatment was effective or not. More below:
This test is called a Quantitative C6 and takes about 1 week for results. It actually quantifies the antibody level, or gives a specific number of antibodies. Based on this, we can determine if treatment is recommended. The Quantitative C6 also gives us a baseline for future monitoring, allowing us to determine if treatment was effective, or if it needs to be performed or redone in the future.
The key point about this C6 quantitative test is that the level correlates with the level of circulating antigen-antibody complexes, which are the components thought to cause the dog significant pathology, such as life-threatening kidney disease.
5. We also recommend a urine test to check for protein in the urine. This includes a full urinalysis and quantitative protein check if necessary. This is recommended as a screen for Lyme nephritis (kidney disease), especially in high risk breeds such as Labs, Golden Retrievers and Shelties. This test costs approximately $55. This test also provides other valuable information on general health.
6. Heartworm preventive pills (only available from your vet or by prescription). Generally Interceptor is recommended over Heartgard as it’s safer for Collie and Australian Shepherd breeds and it has a further reach-back effect. If your dog is from a heartworm endemic region, check with your vet as you may have to go with a preventive that is effective against heartworms in that region.

If you’re worried about lyme disease, you can request additional articles on the most effective prevention and treatment of lyme disease. Send an email to adoptions@saveadog.org for more information.

2019
05.16

Homeopathy is a system of medicine that heals by “energy” rather than chemicals. The remedies come in the form of little sugar pellets that are approximately the size of a sesame seed. When giving Homeopathic remediesa homeopathic remedy to yourself, you tap one or two of the dry homeopathic pellets directly in your mouth and dissolve on your tongue. With pets, a more effective way is to either put a couple of pellets inside the mouth flap, on the gum, or mix the dry pellets into purified or distilled water and syringe it onto their tongue, or to shake it up and give by teaspoonful. I find that mixing the pellets in water is an easy way to deliver a remedy to a pet. Mixing with water is gentle if you have a sensitive pet, but it’s also easier to make the remedy stronger by ‘succussing’ it to add extra energy. Succussing is hitting the base of the bottle with your hand firmly. This potentizes the remedy and the number of succussions increases the potency. I usually give it 2 succussions when first giving a Bottle for homeopathic remediesremedy. You can increase the number of succussions to make the remedy stronger.

Here’s what you do to mix homeopathic remedies in water: Tap 2-3 pellets of the remedy you’re going to use into a bottle. Let the pellets dissolve for about 5 minutes, then shake vigorously to mix the dissolved remedy and succuss (give the bottle a couple of thwacks on your open hand).

Alternately, you can put the remedy into glass bottle containing 4 oz. of spring or distilled water and after it dissolves, stir briskly. Pour onto a teaspoon or if you have a syringe, draw up 1-2 cc’s and drop onto your pet’s tongue. You can always pour a little in an empty cup or bowl for him to drink (after shaking or stirring the mixture). If you have a pet who is not fond of handling, you can put the remedy mixture into a small spray bottle and spray on the anus or any orifice. Birds usually don’t mind being sprayed. Any mucous membrane will absorb a remedy.

Tip for helping birds

In the summertime I keep a spray bottle with arnica mixed in and use it to spray on any injured or stunned birds that accidentally hit my window. If you have flighted birds at home, this remedy mixture comes in handy.

Tips for administering remedies

Give the remedy on a clean palate, i.e., no food should be in his mouth. You don’t have to give it on an empty stomach, but just no food in his mouth so that it will absorb more quickly. It’s important not to mix into your pet’s food as it will hinder the effectiveness of the remedy.

Tips for storing homeopathic remedies

Store remedies in a cool dark place, away from strong-smelling substances such as eucalyptus, camphor, oil of cloves, Vick’s vapor rub and aromatherapy oils. It is not a good idea, therefore, to keep them in the bathroom.
Do not store remedies near mobile phones, televisions, microwave ovens or computers. The fridge is okay.
Ensure the lid is well secured after use.
Do not store where there is direct sunlight, or excessive heat or cold.
Don’t transfer remedies from one container to another.
After a few weeks, toss the remedy out and you can reuse the bottle for other remedies.
Most homeopathic remedies that are mixed in water last about 2 weeks if refrigerated.

2019
03.07

Acclimating the New Dog into Your Home

By: Shirley Moore

Getting Your New Dog/Pup Home Safely: Before coming to pick up your dog, check your house and fenced in yard (if you have one) and make sure there are no holes or gaps where your new dog can slip through. Also if you are having your dog inside the house, make sure to have the best Dumond’s Custom Furniture so it doesn’t get stain easily or break. Prior to leaving the premises, we will attach your dog’s Save A Dog ID tag onto your dog’s collar. We usually carry the dog to the car unless the dog is well leash trained or too heavy. Still, even a well behaved dog can panic when getting into an unfamiliar car, so precaution is always taken. It is best to go straight home to acclimate your dog to his new environment before night fall. If you have a light-weight leash, it’s best to keep it clipped on, even in fenced in areas. The first few days you can have them drag the leash so that you can safely bring your dog inside. Many southern dogs are not used to stairs, so you may have to carry him/her inside the first few times and subsequently use treats to coax your dog up the stairs.

What to expect the first 24 hours: The first day can be very exciting for a dog and you may find that s/he is not that hungry. This is not unusual. Please make sure you allow quiet time for your pup so that s/he can eat and rest, especially if you have kids. This can be in a crate or in an area of the house that is safe, i.e., gating off the kitchen. For adult dogs, it is not unusual for them to “hold their water” (urine) for a few days. We’ve had dogs who have not have a bowel movement for up to four or five days. Once they your dog relaxes, things will start to move internally and they should begin having normal bowel movements. It is not unusual for house-trained dogs to have an accident in a new environment. Also, male dogs will often lift their leg on furniture the first day. It doesn’t mean they’re not housebroken, but it means they’re “marking” their new home as their own. It is wise to confine a new dog and to limit access to rooms other than the kitchen or small rooms with tiled floors. Puppies who are paper-trained will often view a scatter rug as the same as a paper so you might want to roll up the rugs. DO NOT TAKE THE DOG FOR A WALK OFF PROPERTY FOR AT LEAST A WEEK!

 

Adjustment period. Please allow for an adjustment period for your new dog, especially if the dog has recently spent time in a shelter and has suffered many losses and a disruption of his former life. Make sure you keep your new dog home for at least the first 48-72 hours and don’t try to take your dog for a walk until he is leash trained. It is wise to have them drag the leash while indoors to get used to the leash as well as to prevent any quick exits when people open doors unbeknownst to you. Make sure the collar is nice and snug the first few days after bringing any new dog home. LEASH WALK ON PROPERTY ONLY FOR THE FIRST WEEK.

Socialization.It is very important to socialize your dog, but first let him get used to his new home. Take the dog home and have a quiet day letting him get familiar with his new surroundings. The first week you should keep him/her at home as it lessens the chance of escaping if you accidently drop a leash.This is the time to have friends over, including men, women, and children. If your dog is from a rural area, you need to gently and slowly socialize him and not put him into crowded situations or walk them on busy roads where noises may startle them into a fearful response. For adult dogs, daily walks will keep them socialized with pets and people. It’s important that your dog meet new dogs on a daily or weekly basis. Even if you have a fenced-in yard, walking your dog is needful for socialization, but not the first day. Give him a few days to settle in and learn where he lives.

Training resources. Training is required for all adopted dogs.  You can find a professional trainer on the web site https://www.karenpryoracademy.com/find-a-trainerand type in your zip code. A good web site for reward-based training (to bridge the gap before classes start) is http://www.clickertraining.com/. Dogwise.com is a great resource for dog training books and videos. If you live local to us, we often have training classes during the spring/summer months provided by Family Dog Training in Hudson. We recommend them as a training company and they will give you a discount on your dog training classes if you show proof of adoption from us. Avoid dominance training (Caesar) as it will damage your relationship with your dog and cause fearful behaviors. If your trainer suggests shaking a can of pennies or using a shock collar, run the other way.

Food amounts and preparation: We tend to feed puppies 3 times a day and adults twice a day. If your adult dog is underweight, you need to add at least one more feeding per day. We recommend adding chicken broth to help dissolve the added supplements and letting it sit for a few minutes. If you’re switching brands, do it by introducing the new food in small quantities and increasing the new food as the existing food decreases. Do this over a 10 day period.Add probiotics and enzymes to help the process.

Supplements: Commercial dog food does not meet all your dog’s nutritional needs, therefore supplements are important for your dog’s health and will keep you from all those extra visits to the vet. Probiotics and enzymes will promote a healthy intestinal tract as well as make the transition to a different food easier. Probiotics are important in the PM feeding as probiotics work at night. Info on why you should give your dog probiotics is at http://www.thewholedog.org/id24.html. You can give colostrum to boost your pup’s immune system the first year of life. We sell it and it’s online at www.colostrumhealth.co.nz.

For large adult dogs, one tablet of grapefruit seed extract in their kibble every morning will help boost the immune system. It sells for $9 at Vitamin Shoppe) as it’s known for its strong antioxidant qualities. It also treats and prevents giardia. For more information on the benefits of grapefruit seed extract, see http://www.natural-dog-health-remedies.com/gse-for-dogs.html. Save A Dog sells it at a discount to adopters.

 

Getting your puppy or dog on a schedule. It’s important to set a schedule for the puppy as soon as possible, so that house training is easy.

  1. First thing in the morning, take the pup outside to go to the bathroom.  Give lots of praise when she goes, and promptly bring her in for breakfast.
  2. Feed your puppy. Within 20 minutes take her outside again as she will often need a bowel movement shortly after eating.  If the crate is large enough, you can feed in the crate as this provides another opportunity for a positive experience in the crate. If you are not home for an extended period of time, try not to free feed. The reason is that you want her on a schedule so that she will not have unexpected bowel movements.
  3. Once she’s had a bowel movement, praise her and bring her in to play. She should be good for another hour or so. When you cannot supervise your pup, you should put her in the crate with a chew toy to keep her busy. Puppies can generally “hold it” for an hour or two, so when the hour is up, take her out again and praise her when she goes. You’ll want to take him out before you retire for the night and then again first thing the next morning. Crating at night will help teach your pup to hold it through the night. If she whines in the middle of the night, it may mean that she has to go. Put the crate in a family room or kitchen, with an absorbent towel in case of accidents. You can put a night light in the room, play soft music. After a few minutes the pup should settle down. You can put the crate in your bedroom, but if your pup is a light sleeper, she may wake up if you snore or roll over. Try outside the bedroom at first. You can always change things later.

If you have children in the family: It is not a good idea to let the puppy on the furniture as elevation equals status and the dog needs to be kept at a lower status than the children. Also, no tug-o-war or anything playing with hands around the puppy’s face as that will encourage nipping. Keep a chew toy handy to redirect any play biting and if all else fails, give a short time out. Remember to give the puppy several nap times away from the little ones several times a day. We require a physically fenced back yard for families with children 12 and under. You can use the inexpensive Yard Guard fencing that is sold at Home Depot. It is easy to install and can usually be erected in an afternoon. The Yardgard 4 ft. x 50 ft. Vinyl-Coated Welded Wire costs $58 and works for most young dogs. It is made of galvanized and welded steel for long-lasting use. The green PVC coating helps create an upscale appearance that can complement natural surroundings. The general purpose fence is ideal for property delineation or the temporary confinement of your new pup or dog.

Easy-to-Install Fencing

Save A Dog ID tag: When you adopt a dog from Save A Dog you will be supplied with a Save A Dog ID tag. Please keep this tag on your dog in addition to your own tag. That way you will have double protection should your dog get lost. Your dog’s ID number, as well as your contact information, is put into a database so that we can notify you should we get a call from anyone who picks up your dog. Please keep your contact information current with us. If someone picks up your dog, you have a better chance of getting him back if he is wearing a humane society ID tag.

 

2017
02.25

Updated FAQ on Lyme Disease

By: Shirley Moore

Living in New England and being responsible for the care of many rescued dogs, I have been treating lyme disease for the past decade. I’ve compiled this Frequently Asked Questions sheet with my findings. My only goal is to help dogs live a long and healthy life and to prolong the joy that they offer their human guardians.

What is Lyme Disease? Lyme disease is caused by infection with a bacterium called a spirochete (Borrelia burgdorferi) and is transmitted to humans by infected ticks (Ixodes scapularis and I. Pacificus).

How Do I Have My Dog Tested for Lyme? You need to have your dog tested by your veterinarian. Some vets don’t test for lyme if a dog is on year-round heartworm preventive, so you may need to request this test. The test is called 4DX, and tests for the following diseases: heartworm, lyme, anaplasmosis, and ehrlichia. In New England we traditionally stop the heartworm preventive during the winter months when there’s an absence of mosquitoes and then we have our dogs tested using the 4DX test in the spring for heartworm and tick diseases. Note: if your dog is a new rescue from the south or other warm climates you should keep your dog on the heartworm preventive through the first winter. In my experience Interceptor Plus is more effective and has a further reach-back effect than Heartgard.

Will Frontline, Advantage, and other spot-on drops prevent Lyme? No. These spot-on products will not prevent Lyme. They don’t repel ticks and the tick still delivers the spirochete before it dies, hence the lyme pathology is already started by the time the tick dies. Advantix is reputed to repel ticks, but the chemicals in Advantix are indicated to bee colony to collapse. Imagine what this can do your precious dog!

But why does my vet tell me that Frontline prevents Lyme? In laboratory tests the tick took 48 hours to infect the dog. The premise is that the tick will die before it has a chance to pass the spirochete to the dog. More proof is coming out that the ticks deliver the spirochete faster, hence “Frontlined” dogs are contracting Lyme disease. It makes perfect sense that wild life is more robust in its natural environment than in a laboratory. Historically, we’ve seen many dogs who have been dosed with the spot-on products contract lyme, both with the Save A Dog volunteer’s dogs as well as our adopter’s dogs. It’s confusing when veterinarians are still promoting these products that have proven to be ineffective and dangerous.

Are Spot-on products harmful to my dog? The conventional over-the-counter drops or sprays available contain pesticides. It is a known fact that pesticides cause cancer. Therefore, in my opinion, using spot-on products is like burning your house down to get rid of ants. When you squeeze a tube of flea and tick preventive between your dog’s shoulder blades, you are unwittingly depositing pesticides in your dog’s blood stream. As far back as 1989, a study by the Purdue University School of Veterinary Medicine Department of Pathobiology, published in the Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, found that dogs who received one to two topical pesticide applications per year experienced a 60% increased risk of bladder cancer. Dogs that were given more than two applications per year were 3.5 times more likely to develop bladder cancer. The risk was increased even more in overweight or obese dogs (Glickman et al., 1989; Glickman et al., 2004; Raghaven et al., 2004). For testimonials from people whose pets were killed by these products, see http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/pestcontrol.htm#testimonials. It’s better to use a safe product such Dr. Ben’s Paws and Claws cedar oil spray to keep the bugs off. We sell it at our Save A Dog shop at our shelter for $10 or you can buy it at http://www.drbenscedaroil.com. We also recommend the Raw Baltic Amber collars, which repel all bugs. You can also purchase the collars on Amazon.

Is there something I can put in my dog’s food to keep the ticks off? Yes. Garlic and brewer’s yeast is well known as a deterrent to keep the bugs off of dogs. It’s safe and it’s been used for years. You can buy it in a tablet or get it in a powder from most health food stores. http://www.holisticpetinfo.com/conditions/immune_support.htm is a helpful Web site. They also sell Moducare, which is touted by holistic vets as building the immune system against Lyme and other diseases. Astragalus is also well known as a good defense against Lyme disease as it builds up the dog’s defense system. If a dog is positive for Lyme disease then astragalus is not recommended.

Isn’t garlic toxic to dogs? Raw garlic is toxic, but the garlic that is prepared for dogs is actually safe. Combined with brewer’s yeast, it is a good repellant for bugs. I like the Bug Off Garlic sold by Springtime Inc.

What can I put on my lawn that’s safe for dogs? There are many non-toxic sprays that are available now. I like the cedar oil spray the best. For info see http://www.drbenscedaroil.com.

What can I give my dog after he’s been bitten by a tick? A really good defense against Lyme disease is homeopathic Ledum. Homeopathy strengthens the vital force and is very successful at curing diseases of the blood as well as chronic diseases. For a human, take one homeopathic pellet of Ledum 30c twice a day for 2 days following the tick bite. For dogs, give the same dose of Ledum 200c.   Since dogs aren’t as able to dissolve a pellet on their tongue, you can dilute it in 4 oz of distilled water, once the pellet dissolves, stir briskly, and give ½ tsp or several drops on the dog’s tongue. Discard the water after the second day. If you live in a tick infested area, you can give the ledum once a week.  See my article http://animalwellnessguide.com/give-homeopathic-remedies-pet/ for information on the most effective way to give a remedy to your pet.

What about the homeopathic nosode? The homeopathic nosode made from the Borrelia Burgdorferi spirochete has been used successfully to prevent as well as treat lyme disease. It’s wise to use the nosode to prepare yourself or your dog when the ticks are not biting. It is especially helpful to start dogs on this who have not been exposed to the ticks yet, for example, a young puppy or a dog who just moved here from a state where lyme disease is not prevalent. Separate instructions for its use are available by emailing shirley@saveadog.org. The same nosode can be used in a 200c potency to treat Lyme, but you should work with Shirley or another homeopath as the dosage needs to be monitored and the advancement of the disease needs to be assessed. If the disease is advanced, there are other remedies that may be more effective, such as aurum arsenicum. I’m finding that as more tick diseases are emerging, the ledum is a better choice as it treats all tick-borne diseases whereas the borrelia burdorferi only covers lyme.

What about the lyme vaccine? I do not consider the lyme vaccine as safe as the side effects can cause the same arthritic symptoms. Also, it is linked to heart disease including heart attacks, which are on the increase amongst dogs. While many vets feel that it is safe, you need to do your own research. I believe that your dog will have better protection with a strong immune system. If your dog has already been vaccinated with the lyme vaccine, you can strengthen his heart by giving him a combination of hawthorn and dandelion. A good product is available at http://www.heartwormfree.com/hawthorn_dandelion.htm . We carry a similar product made by Amber Technology. It is also a good idea to give supplements that will boost your dog’s immune system.

What if my dog has Lyme disease? If your dog has Lyme disease, you should work with a homeopath or a homeopathic vet who is trained in homeopathy from an accredited school or via Dr. Pitcairn’s course.  The treatment is individualized depending on a number of things, including the etiology of the dog. This will determine the course of action. At the very least, ask for a C6 test so that you can get a baseline of the number of antibodies in the dog’s blood. This will be your yard stick for measuring if the disease is progressing or is on its way out of the body.  Dr. Stephen Tobin of Meriden, CT, has successfully treated thousands of lyme-infected dogs and horses. He advises giving the lyme positive dog Ledum 1M three times a day for three days in a row. Dr. Tobin’s methods are well documented in the Whole Dog Journal http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/4_7/features/5371-1.html. We use a two-step approach, first giving the Ledum 1M for 3 days, followed by a regimen using the homeopathic lyme nosode. We sell the kits at our shelter. More information on treating Lyme Disease with homeopathy, read The Homeopathic Treatment of Lyme Disease by Peter Alex.

What about giving Doxycycline? More information is available now that doxycycline does not stop the disease from progressing. It seems to lower the numbers of antibodies for awhile, but Lyme disease progresses nevertheless. Many homeopaths agree that doxycycline and other antibiotics can hinder the body’s defense mechanism from fighting the disease, so it’s a double-edged sword. The numbers may look good for a while, but the disease comes back with a vengeance. I’ve personally seen this over and over with adopted dogs and with volunteer’s dogs. Also, since the lyme spirochete confers no immunity, once a dog has lyme, s/he can be reinfected every time exposed. Once you treat for lyme, you have to wait six months before having another C6 blood test done. By this time, your dog can be reinfected.

What about Astragalus? Astragalus acts to enhance the immune function during early-stage Lyme disease. It works by enhancing the Th1 immune response, producing higher levels of Th1 which lessens the chance that an infections will occur, or results in more mild symptoms as a result of that infection. However, late-stage Lyme disease is Th1 dominant, so the use of astragalus in the later stages of this disease has the potential to exacerbate this Th1 response and worsen the symptoms of the disease.

Other Methods for Treating Lyme. When the diagnosis is missed, the case turns chronic. Holistic Veterinarian Dr. Roger DeHaan, says that if your dog has chronic Lyme, you need to think outside of the box. He recommends large doses of buffered vitamin C. Vitamin C is a key in connective tissue integrity – the tissue most often attacked by the Lyme organism. You can also add colloidal silver, joint support formulas, immune support and, of course, a superior diet. Ozone therapy provided by MASH Vet in Hopkinton, has been successful for treating Lyme as well. We carry the Bio C as well. Save A Dog is located at 604 Boston Post Road in Sudbury, MA. Phone # 978-443-7282. Homeopathic Aurum Arsenicum has been successful in treating advanced lyme disease. It’s best to work under the guidance of an experienced Homeopath as you will need to assess the totality of the symptoms along with the progression of the disease. Please send your comments and questions to shirley@saveadog.org.

Excerpt from Whole Dog Journal July 2001 issue:

Treating Lyme with] Homeopathy

Although classical homeopathy does not consider Lyme disease a true illness – like syphilis it is considered a “chronic miasm” caused by an immaterial substance that produces disease by disrupting the vital force – one veterinary homeopath in Connecticut takes a different view. After testing different remedies with limited success, Stephen Tobin, DVM, discovered that Ledum palustre in a 1M potency given three times daily for three days is “about as close as you can get to a specific cure.” According to Dr. Tobin, this method has cured cats, dogs, and horses with recent and established infections, some of which were first treated with antibiotics. In addition, he uses the Lyme disease nosode, a homeopathic preparation of Borrelia burgdorferi 60x as a preventive, giving one dose (one dropperful) daily for one week, then one dose weekly for one month, and one dose every six months indefinitely.

Dr. Tobin says that since he began treating dogs for Lyme disease with homeopathy 10 years ago, he has worked with an estimated 1,000 patients, nearly all with complete success. “There are other homeopathic remedies that treat the symptoms of Lyme disease,” he says, “but I consider Ledum the genus epidemicus for this illness. The 1M strength is not widely sold, but lower strengths are. If your dog develops symptoms, you could try Ledum 30C, and if the symptoms come back, you could order the higher potency. If you spend a lot of time in the woods or have large fields behind your house, Ledum 1M is worth keeping on hand,” he says.

“The nosode is a good investment for dog owners here in the Northeast,” he continues, “for it provides better protection than is generally seen with the vaccine. I don’t claim that the nosode offers 100 percent protection, but it does seem to work in most cases.”

While Dr. Tobin finds that Ledum by itself clears most canine Lyme disease, Dr. Cappel uses the nosode for both prevention and treatment. “I’m convinced that the homeopathics are effective,” she says, “but they take longer to work[1], and I don’t like to see animals suffer. I give the Lyme disease nosode at the same time as antibiotics, but I continue the nosode for several months. When I had Lyme disease, I used only the nosode for myself because it was my decision, but when my dog had Lyme, I put her on doxycycline and then the nosode.”

As part of her herbal therapy for Lyme disease, Vermont-based master herbalist Hart Brent recommends giving one dose of Ledum 1M as soon as possible after a tick bite, followed by giving 10 drops of the Lyme disease nosode once per day.

Shirley’s recommendation:

This is my recommendation based on dogs that I’ve treated for lyme disease.

If your dog tests positive for lyme, get the C6 blood test so that you have a baseline to which you can compare future test results. Because ledum is so effective at dealing with the disease, I recommend giving the ledum 1M 3 times a day for 3 days in a row as recommended by Dr. Tobin. I find it more effective to “plus” it in water. See http://animalwellnessguide.com/give-homeopathic-remedies-pet/ for easy instructions on how to give a homeopathic remedy to a pet. Wait a week or two and then give the dog a dose of the 200c ledum once a week for a month, or during the entire tick season. If you have an older dog who is in a weakened state, then you should work with a trained Homeopath who can recommend the correct potency for your dog as well as consider a remedy that better matches your dog’s constitution.

If you’re going to give antibiotics, then use the Borrelia Burgdorferi 60x tincture as recommended by Dr. Cappel. If you can’t find the 60x, you can use the 30c potency. You can buy the nosode from elixirs.com. They have an on site homeopath who can guide you in the use of the nosode. Please note that the Borrelia B. only addresses lyme disease, not the other tick diseases.

If you want to opt out of antibiotics as a means to avoid the collateral damage that happens to the dog’s bowel flora, then I recommend the second treatment using borrelia burdorferi in a 200c potency. The reason for the second treatment is that it is more effective at preventing a reoccurrence of lyme disease. Neither the antibiotic treatment nor the ledum treatment will confer immunity. Your dog can be reinfected with every subsequent tick bite following any treatment. That said I’ve found the borrelia burgdorferi nosode to be very effective at keeping the dog from being reinfected. I recommend giving this nosode during the winter months when you’re less apt to be using the ledum as homeopathics are best given separately.

Have the dog retested (C6) in a few months. Many vets recommend six months. For the best success work with a homeopathic consultant or homeopathic vet who prescribes this method.

I hope this article is helpful to you. Please send feedback to shirley@saveadog.org.

About Shirley: In 1999 I co-founded Save A Dog, along with my husband David Bernier, and we ran the dog rescue operation out of our home for the first 9 years. I’ve been immersed in the care of thousands of dogs for nearly two decades. After witnessing a few homeopathic miracles I embarked on my professional study of homeopathy at Teleosis and the British Institute of Homeopathy. I’ve never been disappointed by this gentle yet powerful system of medicine and I consider it one of the greatest blessings of my life and a gift which I delight in passing onto my dog friends.

 

 


[1] My experience with ledum is that it works very fast , providing relief within a few hours. Shirley

 

2014
12.18

Calendula, used to sooth cuts and rashes and any kind of wound, is a homeopathic remedy that no first-aid kit should be without. Calendula is made from the Garden marigold (Calendula officinalis).  This flower has healing power that needs to be shouted from the rooftops. I’ve been using it at Save A Dog for a number of years and it works with amazing speed and efficiency.

I use it in the gel form (made by Boiron) on female dogs who have recently been spayed to help to keep the spay incision closed and clean. Also, if a dog gets a cut, I immediately run for the Calendula. The only caution about Calendula is to avoid putting it on a dirty wound because it’s healing properties will close up an open wound. So if you have a wound that needs to drain, like a dog bite, do not use Calendula.

It also comes on a little sugar pellet that you can pop in your mouth for generalized healing. For dogs, I like to mix it in water and then use it to rinse a dog’s mouth when they are recovering from dental surgery. Everything heals up so fast. Just drop a couple of the little pellets into 4 ounces of distilled or purified water, let it dissolve, then stir it briskly. Take a teaspoon and drop it onto the dog’s tongue or squirt it with a syringe all inside the dog’s mouth.

True story: The other night I noticed that my Jack Russell was limping. I picked him up and noticed that his rear pad was swollen and had two bright red cuts on it. I immediately reached for the calendula gel and squeezed a generous amount on his pad while my husband held him. We kept him off the floor for about 30 minutes before letting him walk on his pad. (He enjoyed hanging out on the sofa with us). Within the hour he was putting weight on his foot and by the next morning his pad was back to its normal size with just the faint hint of a tiny bump remaining.

Once again, Calendula saved me from an evening vet visit. I never cease to be amazed by this homeopathic remedy.

2014
12.05

Safe Ear Mite Treatment

By: Shirley Moore

This is a great way to treat ear mites safely and effectively. Especially if you want to avoid chemicals altogether, for example if you have a pregnant dog or cat. I have used it on a pregnant terrier who had a terrible case of ear mites and it did the trick. During her spay surgery a few weeks later, I asked the vet to look way down inside her ears with a scope and there were no more mites. She stopped scratching from the first dose. Prior to that she was scratching and crying. After a visit to the vet, she was happy in her fruit tart cat bed, that is soft and comfortable for cats and puppies!
Step 1:

  • Mix 1 Tbsp Olive Oil with 2 vitamin E capsules (open the capsules and squeeze into the olive oil).
  • Stir and drop a couple of drops in each ear with an eye dropper. Try to get it in as deeply as possible. Massage the ear. This soothes the ear and smothers the mites. It also prepares the ear for step 2. Use a cotton ball to wipe any debris from the ear. The dog will shake his or her head and then you can wipe the ear.
  • Do this every other day for 3 treatments. You can cut it down to two but most directions say 3 days. Let the ear rest for two days before step 2.

Step 2:

  • Purchase some Yellow Dock Tea from your local health food store. It’s best to get this where they sell it in bulk. Put 1 tsp in a tea ball or strainer and immerse it in 1 cup of boiling water.
  • Let the tea steep for 15 minutes. Remove the tea ball and let the tea cool.
  • If you can’t find the actual Yellow Dock Tea, you can purchase Yellow Dock Tincture instead. In that case you will mix one drop of tincture with 9 drops water.
  • With an eye dropper, drop a couple drops of the Yellow Dock Tea in each ear (then let the dog out as she will shake her head).
  • Do this every other day for 3 treatments.

That was all that was needed. No more mites, no more scratching, an no risk to nursing pups.

 

2014
11.27

What Service Does your Dog Need during the Wellness Exam?

  1. A complete physical exam to detect any obvious health issues and to provide the vet a baseline for future exams.
  2. A heartworm/lyme test. Most vets perform a 3DX or 4DX snap test to determine is your dog has a tick- or mosquito-borne disease. The 4DX test is to test for Heartworm disease, Lyme disease and Ehrlichiosis/Anaplasmosis.
  3. A blood test such as CBC for a basic chemical profile. This is especially helpful if your dog is a senior or if you suspect any underlying health issues.
  4. C6 test (if your dog tests positive for Lyme disease, you will want to know specifics on what the dog’s antibody levels are and this serves as a baseline for you to determine options for treatment and if treatment was effective or not). More below:Image result for veterinarian

This test is called a Quantitative C6 and takes about 1 week for results. It actually quantifies the antibody level, or gives a specific number of antibodies. Based on this, we can determine if treatment is recommended. The Quantitative C6 also gives us a baseline for future monitoring, allowing us to determine if treatment was effective, or if it needs to be performed or redone in the future.

The key point about this C6 quantitative test is that the level correlates with the level of circulating antigen-antibody complexes, which are the components thought to cause the dog significant pathology, such as life-threatening kidney disease. The C6 test is perfect for dogs and is only about $115.

  1. We also recommend a urine test to check for protein in the urine. This includes a full urinalysis and quantitative protein check if necessary. This is recommended as a screen for Lyme nephritis (kidney disease), especially in high risk breeds such as Labs, Golden Retrievers and Shelties. This test is about $55 and is recommended by TreeHousePuppies. This test also provides other valuable information on general health.
  2. Heartworm preventive pills (only available from your vet or by prescription). Generally Interceptor is recommended over Heartguard as it’s safer for Collie and Australian Shepherd breeds and it has a reach-back effect of up to 4 months.

If you’re worried about lyme disease, see the articles on Lyme Disease in this blog or look for a certified veterinarian that works near you location to help save your pet.

For the ones interested in saving animals like in this case you can look for special courses, volunteering or even getting in the veterinarian career with the help of a scholarship by checking the vet school rankings in education and look for the right one for you.

Before allowing your vet to administer any vaccines, be sure to read the other blogs on this Web site. Certain vaccines have adverse side effects that you may not see for a few months, but vets only consider it an adverse reaction if it happens within a day or so. My advice is to avoid bordetella, lyme, and lepto vaccines in general as all can lead to chronic disease.

 

2013
12.02

Boarding your dog might be detrimental to your dog’s health, especially if you use a facility that requires the Bordetella or Distemper vaccines.

Bordetella, better known as “kennel cough” is not a disease that is preventable by vaccination. This upper respiratory infection is not much different from a human cold. You cannot protect your dog from kennel cough with this vaccine any more than you can protect yourself from the common cold with a vaccine. In fact, subjecting your dog to this vaccine actually suppresses the dog’s immune system. We learned this the hard way at Save A Dog. When we’ve had kennel cough in our shelter the vaccinated dogs got sicker and took longer to recover. The few dogs that developed pneumonia were dogs that had recently been vaccinated with the bordetalla vaccine.

Distemper is part of a combination vaccine called distemper/parvo, or DA2PP. This is a booster given to puppies in a series, or once if your dog is over six months. Once your dog is a year old, it does not need to be repeated again. In fact, all 27 Veterinary teaching hospitals changed their protocol for the distemper vaccine. Studies show that this vaccine not only does NOT provide additional protection after a year, but that it can cause damage to your dog’s health. Don’t be pressured into giving this potentially dangerous vaccine if your dog has already had it as an adult. Vaccine expert, Dr. Ronald Schultz, says that the vaccine is 98% effective at 15 weeks of age and that your dog’s immune system has a memory for vaccines, so one vaccine affords lifetime protection. He has tested this vaccine on many dogs with subsequent blood work (titers) and has not had to revaccinate any of his test dogs again. Ask for a titer test during your dog’s wellness visit and bring the results with you when you board your dog.

Subjecting your dog to any vaccine prior to boarding is a huge mistake, in my opinion. Vaccines suppress the immune system for approximately two weeks, so if your dog is vaccinated just before boarding, your dog might be going into a stressful situation in a compromised state of health. Stress breaks down the immune system even without a vaccine, so it makes no sense to have your dog subjected to these extra vaccines that aren’t even required by law. Pet owners might not be aware that vaccines contain cancer-causing ingredients such as aluminum hydroxide, formaldehyde, and mercury. Is it worth risking your dog to cancer for the convenience of using one of these boarding kennels?

So if your boarding kennel or doggy daycare requires these vaccines, run the other way. There are plenty of places and even in-home pet sitters who would love your business and your dog will thank you for it.

Read Vaccine Expert Dr. Jean Dodd’s Warning about the Distemper Vaccine:

Dogs’ and cats’ immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified live virus (MLV) vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces immunity, which is good for the life of the pet (ie: canine distemper, parvo, feline distemper).

If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not “boosted” nor are more memory cells induced.

Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated hemolytic anemia.

There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines.”

 

“Puppies receive antibodies through their mother’s milk. This natural protection can last 8-14 weeks. Puppies & kittens should NOT be vaccinated at LESS than 8 weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced.

Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, delay the timing of the first highly effective vaccine. Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart suppress rather than stimulate the immune system.

A series of vaccinations is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age. Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age (usually at 1 year, 4 mo) will provide lifetime immunity.”

How to Prepare Your Dog for Boarding

The best way to prepare your dog for boarding is to strengthen your dog’s immune system.

  • Make sure you feed a healthy diet that will provide your dog with real nutrition. You can keep track of the best pet food and check up on the pet food recalls by going to the Web site: http://truthaboutpetfood2.com and sign up on their email blog.
  • Certain vitamins like the B vitamins, serve to calm nerves and act as de-stressors for your dog. Vitamin C helps to fight kennel cough. At Save A Dog we use Dr. Harvey’s Multi-vitamin powder. In addition to the basic vitamins, it contains bee pollen, spirulina, lecithin, and many other ingredients that boost the immune system to fight kennel cough and other diseases. We carry this in our shelter store.
  • Grapefruit seed extract (GSE) is a popular treatment for gastro-intestinal disorders and a host of other ills. We’ve used it to shorten the duration of kennel cough and we’ve seen the symptoms disappear in as little as 3 days. GSE is also an effective treatment of giardia, another disease often seen in kennels.
  • Probiotics and digestive enzymes will protect your dog’s intestinal tract to lessen your dog’s chance of intestinal distress and resulting diarrhea, which kenneled dogs are prone to get. We carry the NaturVet Digestive Enzymes with Prebiotics and Probiotics. You can also get probiotics at your local health food store.

Vote with your Feet!

Boarding kennel vaccine requirements are not based on science at all. The more pet owners speak up for against these vaccination requirements, the more the trend will change and more boarding kennels will opt for a more holistic protocol. You can offer to sign a waiver that you choose not to vaccinate. If your boarding kennel, day care, or groomer requires these vaccines, vote with your feet. If your boarding kennel or doggy day care does not require these vaccines, send me their name and I will recommend them.

Recommended Websites:

http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/bordatella-vaccination-dogs/

http://www.dogs4dogs.com/blog/

http://truthaboutpetfood2.com

http://dr-jordan.com/nutrition/

http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/AnimalWellness/PetVacc.aspx